Going Hog Wild in Fife

Photos by jill russell

DON MILLER PREPARES BARBEQUE DURING A LUNCH RUSH. He has been cooking at the Warthog BBQ Pit for about nine years.

In a region dominated by seafood and sushi, the Warthog BBQ Pit in Fife aims to provide down-home country cooking in a low-key environment.

This little log cabin may seem simple and unsuspecting, but do not be fooled. Owner Gary Kurashima, also known as “Mr. Warthog,” said on average the barbeque pit grills up to 300 pounds of meat in a single day.

Becoming a grill master is not easy. Kurashima’s culinary journey began in the Pacific Northwest more than 25 years ago. From the Alaska Salmon Bake in Fairbanks to a stint as a cook at H.D. Hotspurs BBQ restaurant in Kent and the smoke pits at the Puyallup Fair, this Tacoma native has spent years learning the nuances of what makes great barbeque.

Cooking in a cabin

Like most chefs, opening his restaurant in 1999 was a dream come true.  

“I always try to put more into my business,” Kurashima said. “We want to capture their appetite.”

The log cabin site for his restaurant is hard to miss, situated just off exit 137 on Interstate 5. On any particular day, crowds of people – from bikers to babies, can be found lined up to get a taste of whatever’s cooking.

Inside the cabin, customers feel at home in the close, family-style dinning room. Taxidermy animals hang from the walls and help set the tone for the restaurant’s Wild West theme.

The cabin was a natural fit for Kurashima, who explained he was looking for an interesting and autonomous site to start his business. It initially took about six weeks to find a building that fit Kurashima criteria: one made of log or brick or one that looked rustic. He found just what he was looking for in Fife, when he discovered the log cabin’s owner was retiring and needed to sell.  Now, more than 11 years later, Kurashima’s business has continued to boom.

The Warthog BBQ Pit is considered a continual work in progress and almost every year Kurashima tries to add something new. This year he will be adding the “jail house,” an add-on space to the restaurant’s barn-shaped banquet room. The goal is to equip the room with a big screen television and dining space to accommodate at least 60 people. Right now the space has room for about 35 people.

“This is something we’ve wanted to do for years, but there’s always something like economy or not enough money,” Kurashima said.

With the new space, the Warthog BBQ Pit will also offer a new menu item – pizza. The restaurant will be starting with two or three new varieties, sticking with the ingredients they know best, such as barbeque chicken.

The art of barbeque

Making perfect barbeque is an all-day process. Kurashima usually arrives at the restaurant around 6:30 a.m. to begin heating the stoves and grill and by 7 a.m., the smokers are turned on. To make his signature smoked prime rib, Kurashima smokes the meat for about four hours. He said this process of smoking the prime rib is unique to the Warthog because most local places cook their version in an oven with salts and spices.

Each piece of barbeque at the Warthog has a special sauce created to complement the specific variety of meat. There restaurant has a traditional “warthog sauce” and several varieties of homemade sauce. But, do not expect Kurashima to divulge his secret recipes.

After years of cooking for others, Kurashima said he has tried to glean secrets and cooking techniques from every restaurant experience he has had. Although he tends to cook the same recipes most of the time, he keeps his mind and palate fresh by experimenting with new flavors and foods.

“A good chef is always creating and trying new processes and techniques,” Kurashima said.

His favorite meat to grill is brisket or prime rib because of the way it “melts in your mouth.” And patrons will find plenty of both on the restaurant’s menu.

Entrees range from basic BBQ pork, chicken, beef and turkey plates to slow-cooked BBQ sandwich combos. Entrees are served with beans, cornbread with honey butter, and choice of potato salad or coleslaw.

The restaurant also specializes in signature burgers. Each burger comes complete with a name straight out of the ol’ west. “Billy the Kid” ($9.99) uses a three-cheese blend of cheddar, Swiss and pepper jack topped with smoked bacon. “Calamity Jane” ($9.99) is a burger with broiled chicken breast topped with teriyaki sauce, pineapple, Swiss cheese and torn lettuce. “General Custer” ($10.95) uses a grilled, half-pound slow smoked Kobe beef patty and is topped with home-style coleslaw and chipotle sauce. Each burger is served with Warthog fries on the side.     

Steaks are also a popular option, with 22 oz. Texas porterhouse ($26.95), 12 oz. angus New York ($17.95) or 12 oz. Warthog top sirloin ($16.95) served Monday through Thursday from 4 p.m. until closing. There are also a variety of salad and soup options throughout the week and a children’s menu ranging from grilled cheese sandwiches to chicken nuggets.

Home on the ‘range’

For some, cooking barbeque can be daunting. But Kurashima feels quite at home with his range. He said the Warthog gets the occasional Southerner visitor, who is looking for a taste from home.

“I don’t get nervous at all, when people who have grown up on barbeque come eat here. I commend it,” Kurashima said. “When they tell us it’s the best barbeque they’ve had since being home, it just reinforces that were doing it right.”

For a lot of people, barbeque will always bring back memories of family, friends and fun, Kurashima explained. As long as people enjoy the sweet, spicy, smoky tastes of grilled meats, the Warthog BBQ Pit will continue to deliver.

“Part of my success, is that I eat out a lot and I’m a chameleon,” Kurashima said. “I’m always looking and tasting.”

Warthog BBQ Pit is located at 4921 20th St. E. in Fife. Hours of operation are Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. The Warthog BBQ Pit also offers on-site banquet facilities and full catering services. For more information, call (253) 896-5091.

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